Rosie-Huntington Whiteley for Jalouse Magazine June 2014
Top 10 Newcomer Models Of The Moment
Our pick of the top 10 new models from the FW14 shows. These are the breakout faces of the season and the ones to watch out for, in upcoming editorials and advertising campaigns!
From top left to bottom right:
1. IANA GODINA from Ukraine
2. LEXI BOILING from Chicago, Illinois
3. LARISSA HOFMANN from Germany
4. RONJA FURRER from Switzerland
5. NASTYA STEN from Moscow, Russia
6. HARLETH KUUSICK from Estonia
7. OLA RUDNICKA from Warsaw, Poland
8. SOPHIE TOUCHET from Canada
9. EMMA WALDO from New York
10. CONSTANZA SARAVIA from Uruguay
The collection at Osman was a master class in modern jet set luxury with a bohemian twist. It was as if a diamond heiress had set out on a Moroccan adventure, indulging in exotic opulence along the way. Osman was inspired by ethnicity and the costume of ancient cultures. He used a mix of fine art prints, which were unexpected yet welcomed with open arms.
He began with ottoman tile brocade prints on sculpted tees and razor sharp tailored trousers. The ornate brocade prints came in luxe metallics, mainly gold and a silvery blue. Rich jacquards brought a touch of sparkle to the collection. These pieces were styled with a mix of bright azure blue, vivid orangs and neon yellows, which added an unusual sunshine, feel for fall. Prints continued but this time they were surrealist trompe l’oeil drawings of hands, purses and eyes on asymmetric skirts and shift dresses in black, gold and pink. This playful detail showed off Osman’s intelligent and directional style.
Scarves were the must have item of the collection; a blue scarf with gold fringing from the first look set the tone for the collection. They were skillfully knotted around the neck or lavishly draped around the shoulders in a range of materials including rabbit fur. The fur continued with oversized elaborate mink coats falling to the ground. Osman’s quirky references became clear when scarves were also worn around the waist like oriental style obi belts and even kimono suits made a comeback.
Other key pieces were the bejeweled mesh vests and slips, which were layered over tank tops and body con dresses. A variety of sculptured necklines added individuality to each look and made the collection a feast for the eyes. The crowd of observant eyes followed the layers of the garments, attempting to understand the exquisite way they moved. Images of the asymmetric hemlines do not serve them justice; they should be viewed in movement to appreciate the cut, the folds and the precision Osman used to execute them.
We saw daywear, workwear and eveningwear all present in the collection so there is something available for all occasions. The eveningwear stunned with numerous cocktail dresses, a shorts suit and a striking navy jumpsuit with the trompe l’oeil effect. Osman achieved a wearable collection due to the variety of separates he provided. They can be worn as seen on the runway or taken apart and worn in ones own unique style. With his unpredictable combination of textures, colours and silhouettes, Osman managed to strike the perfect balance between eccentricity and elegance.
This season Dublin based designer, John Rocha took the fashion crowd inside one of his romantic fantasies. The crowd was taken through a 19th century Bronte novel and the beloved Secret Garden; it was left to one’s own imagination. Rocha’s appreciation of nature became clear as the models glided down the runway and a dark secret garden of wild flowers unfolded. It is one of those collections where seeing is not enough but you want to be up-close to touch and feel the intricate and gloriously textured pieces.
Rocha used his signature crochet and delicately mixed it with lace, tulle and organza. There were gently folded organza dresses, layered lace dresses and beautifully tiered tulle skirts. He introduced A-line silhouettes with dresses and skirts at knee length or mid-calf, with the fullness of 50’s style ball gowns but the lightness of petals falling through the air. High waisted paper bag trousers paired with sheer bodices were an alternative option. Oversized trapeze style coats in rich velvets added a modern touch to the collection. This season was all about over-sized ruffle layers, which appeared in numerous asymmetric styles, draped across shoulders, hips, waists and inventively used to create corsages and hats, bringing a dramatic yet soft feel to the collection.
This collection was predominately dark with a moody colour palette of black, charcoal grey, deep greens and crimson. They were given an uplifting punch by a bold cherry red ruffled dress, which was the showstopper of the collection. Rocha is known for his handcrafting, beading and appliqué to garments so it was no surprised that the stand out pieces of the show were the full mid-calf dresses with 3D flowers details in pink, red and yellow hand appliquéd onto black organza. There were also lasered cut out petals and black crotchet dresses. The feel of his exquisite embroidery detail was decadence, pure and romantic.
With a collection that was intense yet delicate and wild yet feminine, Rocha really showed how fashion can be theatre and fashion can be art. It was not practical but truly beautiful. He finds success through acknowledging trends but remaining purely Rocha and he did not disappoint as he gave winter florals a new lease of life.
Angelina Jolie wearing vegan designer Stella McCartney jewellery at the Maleficent world premiere Los Angeles
We’ve picked our top fashion films of the season for you to enjoy!
'Spring/Summer 14’ by Prada
Prada’s SS14 print ad campaign is one of the highlights of the season and the film campaign is no less. Casting Director, Ashley Brokaw chose more than 15 of the finest hot new models to star in the campaign, including Anna Ewers, Ashleigh Good and Ola Rudnicka (names to remember). Never before have so many ‘it’ girls featured in one campaign, which made this season’s campaign one of the most innovative we have seen. The film is filled with Prada’s signature humorous aesthetic as the models act in unison; imitating the intensity and suspense of a sports game, gasping at horror scenes in a movie and dancing about ecstatically at a concert. The bursts of colour in the SS14 collection shine brightly throughout the scenes making women all over the world want to wear Prada whatever the occasion.
‘The Spirit of Travel’ by Louis Vuitton
‘A-Z of the World’s Top Supermodels’ by i-D Magazine
i-D appears to be moving in a new direction with it’s latest fashion film. No longer is i-D associated solely with street style and street kids, it now boasts an array of supermodels and the most influential fashion designers of this generation. The film features a whirlwind of 26 top models such as Cara Delevinge, Lindsey Wixon and Xiao Wen Ju performing the magazines signature wink. Directed by Jérémie Rozan and styled by Charlotte Stockdale, this electric film will send shockwaves through your visionary sense as bright lettering and flashing lights are jumbled amongst the supermodels. Designer of the moment, J.W.Anderson and the legendary Rick Owens make special guest appearances to top off this fabulous fashion find.
Designers Lara Kovacevich and Lydia Tsvetnenko of the West Australian-based label Zhivago were inspired by Guy’s Bourdin’s women and the movie Blade Runner, which resulted in a collection made for a sexy woman with a dark mystic. There was a definite eighties influence with the big hair, skin-tight black lace and shoulder padded blazers reminiscent of ‘the power girl’. The energy was raw, as models covered head to toe in sequins stormed down the runway. Sequins were paired with stretch fabrics for a modern sportswear twist. The colours were dark with blacks and a range of greens in emerald, moss and khaki. This season the Zhivago woman is the ultimate dramatic.
Words: Emma Louise Video Edit: Raf Flores Camera: Raf Flores Leo Chan Music: Bundat & Kill a Bite - “HARD”
The Cruise 2015 Collection’s have officially kicked off to an extravagant start with some of the world’s top designers presenting their collections in the wildest locations.
Thomas Maier presented Bottega Veneta’s latest collection to a showroom of guests who were given the opportunity to appreciate his ladylike design aesthetic. Bottega Veneta is not the pants and t-shirt type of label; it was all about skirts and dresses with a free floating ease to them. He opened with a string of looks using a bleaching technique to fade the colours, which left subtle pastel pinks and powdery blues to ease the customers towards spring. Maier continued to experiment with bleach using a process called corrosion to remove colours from pieces. These pieces produced graphic patterns, stripes running from the collar and white floral prints on a crisp lilac shirt. The same technique changed the material of fabrics, which resulted in a lamé style jacquard floral miniskirt paired with a slouchy blouse. The final looks were over died to produce grid like patterns and abstract floral prints on striking yet laid back evening dresses.
Creative Director Raf Simons took Dior to New York City for this year’s Cruise 2015 Collection. The collection mixed an American realness with a European graciousness, an air of sophistication rifled through the looks. Simons took the scarf, which has long been associated with lady-likeness and incorporated it into garments to give the collection a hand-made feel. The models wore large patchwork furs as outwear to add balance to the playful abstract printed looks, this also added to the homespun feel. All American beauty Kate Goodling closed the show in a sophisticated monochrome evening dress with a bright red floral splash across the chest. This collection was definitely one for the American clients.
Chanel is famous for their Cruise collections, which are set in increasingly luxurious locations each year. Karl Lagerfeld hosted this year’s show on a private island off the cost of Dubai (luxurious to say the least). Dubai is one of the fastest growing luxury markets around the world, which explains Chanel’s choice of location. Models and A-list celebrities were flown in from around the world for a feast for the eyes. The collection evoked travel and the true spirit of cruise where European and Asian high glamour met halfway. It was a whirlwind of 70’s influenced silhouettes, intricate embroidery and prints and prints and even more prints. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel, says that Cruise now represents the brands biggest and most important delivery of the year, which justifies the sheer scale of the show.
Oscar de la Renta’s Resort 2015 Collection was polished and refined in true Oscar fashion. It was a collection with a broad appeal, serving nostalgic late 70’s and early 80’s elements. There were influences from Dubai’s belly dancing era and Verushka’s Amazonian style. Day, evening and cocktail attire were present in the form of inventive black and white tweeds, metallics and large-scale florals embroidered in silver threads. Classic ladylike silhouettes took centre stage with neat suiting and crop tops paired with rompers for a youthful take on this sophisticated look. The finale looks were excessive evening dresses in creams, beiges and browns with surprise pops of magenta and aqua marine. This collection was a fantasy for dreamers around the world, especially in the Middle East where Oscar de la Renta boutiques have recently recorded booming sales, particularly in Dubai.
This season was Louis Vuitton’s first ever runway show for Cruise and Nicolas Ghesquière’s first Cruise collection for Louis Vuitton. The final first was the location of the show, held in the courtyard in front of the Prince’s Palace of Monaco. The collection was a playful affair with prints galore. The eclectic prints symbolised tree branches intertwining with each other in an array of colours and textures. They also appeared to be prints reminiscent of coral reefs and the wondrous natural plants found on the ocean bed. This reflected the runway floor, a dazzling projection of the sea. 70’s style trouser suits covered in over-sized florals and monochrome polka dot prints were unexpected and stand outs of the show. To put it simply, Nicolas Ghesquière delivered this collection, printed with passion.
It appears that the Cruise collections are bigger and better than we’ve ever seen before. Designers are taking inspirations from all over the world and travelling all over the world to present their shows. What is this saying about the fashion industry? Designers will no longer be sticking to the four fashion capitals of the world, Paris, Milan, New York and London. We will be seeing shows in the most unexpected locations for the rest of the Cruise collections over the next few weeks. Keep updated as we deliver you the latest Cruise collections from around the world.
Stealing the show #blakelively in #CHANEL #chanelcouture #cannesfilmfestival #cannes #mrturner #premiere #favouriteoutfit
Sydney based sisters Alexandra and Genevieve Smart continued to certify whom the Ginger and Smart girl is this season with their combination of strength and fluidity. Dresses were digitally printed with visions of snakeskin, quartz motifs and aquatic dreams. Sheer panels made of French lace were present in the lower sections of the dresses, which gave a multi-layered dimension to the clothing. White suiting and tailored separates broke up the prints to create a diverse, wearable collection. They provided a range of colours from lilacs, baby pinks, aqua, teal and a stand out sexy poppy red. This season Ginger and Smart had a strong vision, showing off a delicate predator who has a polished yet playful spirit.
Video Edit: Muc Nguyen
Camera: Muc Nguyen, Raf Flores
Words: Emma Louise
Music: Starlit Everglades - As Our Hands Touched (Gold Falls Remix)